Say “Bye-Bye” to the same old boring chrome-plated steel shafts and add a touch of color to your game with the New Apollo Chroma Steel Shafts from Hireko Golf.
The Apollo Chroma features a two-tone fade finish in three of the most color-coordinated paint schemes. This ultra-lightweight golf shaft design (20 grams less than a standard weight shaft) will help reduce overall weight and give those golfers with a relatively smooth swing added distance, yet the accuracy they associate with steel shafts. However, there is more than meets the eye than the colorful yet economical steel iron shafts with tight weight tolerances.
In the upcoming Modern Guide to Golf Clubfitting book, we talk about creating alternative flexes. Even though this shaft was originally created as an R&S combination flex shaft, we can follow the rules of soft and hard-stepping and create basically 6 flexes out of one shafts. Here is a chart showing what the manufacturer recommends for R-flex in black and S-flex in red.
You will notice that there is a 2” difference in the tip trimming between these two flexes. If we cut the shafts to each of the two flexes in identical heads, lengths and swingweights we would see a 10 cpm difference. However, let’s say we wanted to make the shaft between R and S flex or what some may call firm. We can tip trim 1” more than chart for the R-flex or 1” less than S-flex chart. We would have confidence that a 1” difference in tip trimming would result into a 5 cpm change. The shaft has nearly 11” of parallel tip section and 42” in raw length so we have plenty of room to trim more if we wanted to create a stiffer flex or hit a target frequency. And since fewer and fewer customers are carrying 3 and 4 irons, you can create softer flexes by trimming less. You can see the approximate frequencies you can expect based on the various trimming options.
It should be noted that there are listings for Soft R, Tour S and X in addition to Firm. These are simply labels to assign the flex relative to the normal R or S flex designed into the shaft. The frequency of the Apollo Chroma will be softer in the same flex designations as shafts that will be much heavier. That is, don’t expect the Chroma X to be as stiff as a Dynamic Gold X100 as there are no industry standards for flex.
What does it play like?
In terms of weight, frequency and stiffness distribution along the length of the shaft, the Apollo Chroma matches up well to the KBS Tour 90 parallel tip shafts using the trimming options listed below. Note the X-flex was created by tip trimming to length.
Chroma R = KBS Tour 90 Parallel Tip R-flex trimming to the 4.0 option
Chroma S = KBS Tour 90 Parallel Tip S-flex trimming to the 4.5 option
Chroma X* = KBS Tour 90 Parallel Tip S-flex trimming to the 5.0 option
For those that use the Dynamic Shaft Fitting Index (DSFI), here is the information to match up to the annual Shaft Fitting Addendum.
As the dog days of summer are soon to come, be prepared and remember to stock up on golf gloves so you get the most not only out of your practice sessions, but also when you are on the course. Also be sure to be fit correctly with the right sized glove.
This past week I was out testing seven different driver / shaft combinations with my trusty Voice Caddie SC100 portable launch monitor that I always take with me to the range. The beauty of it is that it provides me instantaneous feedback to accurately compare different clubs that is impossible to see with the naked eye. If one driver can give you 5 more yards on a consistent basis than the others, then you want to know which one it is. However, this isn’t the one piece of equipment I was referring to.
With it being unseasonably hot and humid, it didn’t take long to warm up. The Voice Caddie was showing my distances with my treasure trove of test drivers were only topping out around 239 yards. Man, old age can’t be creeping up on me now. I soon noticed that I was dripping sweat from the heat of the sun and it finally donned on me I wasn’t properly prepared. There was something stuck to the side of my bag I hadn’t removed and that was a nice dry golf glove. I hadn’t even thought of it as it has been colder than normal up until last week and had not needed to use a glove until now.
Immediately after putting on the glove the Voice Caddie was showing my distance jumped up to 254 yards using the exact same clubs. Now, that’s more like it! When I examined the numbers, the swing speed readings were really not much different, but what really increased was the smash factor or how much more solidly I was hitting the ball; all from a more secure grip with the aid of a simple glove. Plus, not only was I hitting the ball further, but the balls were going much straighter too.
As the dog days of summer are soon to come, be prepared and remember to stock up on gloves so you get the most not only out of your practice sessions, but also when you are on the course. Also be sure to be fit correctly with the right sized glove.
One question I often hear from customers is whether or not you need to completely remove all the paint (and polyurethane) from a graphite shaft tip.
Before I answer that I want to first explain that proper shaft abrasion is absolutely necessary for a good bonding surface for the epoxy to adhere between the shaft and the interior of the hosel. You never ever want to epoxy the graphite shaft that hasn’t had some prep work done to the tip or the way it was shipped from the manufacturer. The outer surface of a graphite shaft is painted (sometimes with multiple layers) to provide the aesthetics and then sprayed with clear coat or polyurethane over it to protect the paint. This provides a very smooth surface that is not conducive to bonding the head and the shaft.
So back to the main question; do you need to remove all the paint? The answer is no. What you want is the paint and polyurethane to be roughened to eliminate the smooth surface. In some cases it may require you to remove all the paint to be able to get the shaft to seat all the way into the hosel. But leaving a little on there, as long as it is roughed up and the shaft bottoms out in the hosel without being forced, is all that is necessary.
Whether you are abrading a graphite shaft on a belt sander with a graphite shaft sanding belt, using an electric motor with a synthetic abrasive wheel, by hand with a strip of medium grit sandpaper or lastly using a knife blade to scrape the paint off, it is advisable to periodically test fit the shaft into the head you are going to be installing the head into. You may encounter a shaft that may happen to be undersized. If all the paint were to be removed, this will leave a loose fitting shaft and require shafting beads to be used. This is why leaving some of the paint on is perfectly acceptable in certain cases.
> WANT TO BECOME A BETTER AND MORE PROFITABLE GOLF CLUBMAKER? CLICK HERE TO BUY THE MODERN GUIDE TO CLUBMAKING NOW IN IT’S 6th EDITION! ONLY $29.95 EACH!