Hireko Adds Two New Lofts to the Dynacraft Driving Iron Series

Whether you use the two new lofts in the Dynacraft Driving Iron off the tee on short par 4’s or long par 3’s or hit them out of the fairway or rough, these will be more forgiving and hit the ball longer than the irons lying in a corner of your basement or garage.

Early this year we debuted the Dynacraft Driving Iron – an 18º hollow-bodied utility club with a special vacuum heat treated forged face design and a high C.O.R. We thought when we developed this club it would be a niche product for those that wanted a control club off of the tee for short par 4’s and who didn’t care for the look of a hybrid wood appearance. To our surprise, our sales forecasting was a wee bit off. We sold more in the first month than we anticipated for the entire year. We would like to say “Thanks” to our customers for that.

After we saw there was a demand and received feedback from our customers and distributors, we began tooling up additional lofts to go into this series of “driving irons”. This coming week, the companion 21 and 24 degree versions will be in stock and ready to sell.

Dynacraft Driving Iron

What’s in a name?
OK, in hindsight we should have never called the original Dynacraft Driving Iron a “driving iron” if we ever considered adding additional lofts. DOH! After all, if you bought the original model and now want to add one or both of the new lofts to your bag, why carry multiple driving irons in the bag? We probably should have called them utility irons (or clubs) is all I am sayin’ to help bridge the gap between your fairway wood(s) and the more user-friendly mid irons. However, if you carry only one in your bag, whether it is the original 18º model or one of the new lofts, then I suppose it becomes your driving iron if it is the longest iron you carry.

What do the new lofts replace?
The original driving iron was considered a 2-iron for loft, length and tip trimming. The new 21º loft is a direct replacement for a #3-iron and the 24º would be the equivalent of a #4-iron.

Dynacraft Driving IronWhy are they better than a traditional iron?
Most golfers struggle with the #3 and 4-irons probably more so than any club in the bag. Golfers may blame the low loft or the longer assembly lengths, but then they replace those with hybrids which are oftentimes the same loft (or stronger) as well as longer in length. So that can’t be the reason for poor performance with longer irons. No, the blame is the lack of forgiveness as the vast majority of irons do not have their weight spread far enough around the perimeter.

Dynacraft Driving Iron FaceEnter the Dynacraft Driving Irons. These are hollow-bodied construction like a hybrid for superior forgiveness. But let’s not forget about the reflexive, thin face which increases ball speed and distance that is not possible with a traditional iron possessing a much thicker face.

Is it time to switch?
Whether you use the two new lofts in this series off the tee on short par 4’s or long par 3’s or hit them out of the fairway or rough, these will be more forgiving and hit the ball longer than the irons lying in a corner of your basement or garage or those you are probably carrying in your bag that get used infrequently as you have little confidence in their performance. The Dynacraft Driving Iron series are additional options aside from hybrids or higher lofted fairway woods to replace these sometime forgotten clubs in the bag.

Dynacraft Driving Iron Component Clubhead Dynacraft Driving Iron Component Clubhead
Dynacraft Driving Iron
Dynacraft Driving Iron –
Custom Assembled
Model# IH435 Model# XIH435
$14.95 each Base Price $36.00 each
 Dynacraft Driving Iron Buy Now  Dynacraft Driving Iron Buy Now

Why Aren’t Golf Club Lofts in Nice 4 Degree Increments?

There are a number of parameters (some equipment and other swing related) that influence how far you hit the golf ball. Having the right combinations of lofts in the set in order to have nice incremental gaps between each club is a must.

Download Hireko Golf CatalogOne question I get occasionally from customers is why don’t the lofts of irons and wedges increase at the rate of 4 degrees per club in order to have consistent distance gaps? After all, it is only fair to think if the lofts are separated like that then the distances should be spread out consistently as well. However, what may make perfect sense on paper doesn’t work out the same in reality as we will explain in this article.

At one time loft were sold with nice even 4 degree gaps per iron. This occurred most recently from 1950-1970. Here is what the typical lofts were of that age.

2 iron        20
3 iron        24
4 iron        28
5 iron        32
6 iron        36
7 iron        40
8 iron        44
9 iron        48
PW           52
SW           56

Soon after that we started to see more of the separation as they are today with lower lofted irons gapped closer to 3º apart and the wedges and perhaps the 9 iron at 5º separation. Today, the lofts look closer to the following.

3 iron        20
4 iron        23
5 iron        26
6 iron        29
7 iron        33
8 iron        37
9 iron        41
PW           45
GW           50
SW           55
LW           60

There is a rhyme and reason why manufacturers produce lofts like this. Some may say this is simply due to the lofts have strengthened to give you more distance and they couldn’t continue the progression in the lower numbered clubs and make them playable. While there may be some truth to that, it is more of a function of the dynamics of the swing.

Center of gravity of the head
Each head has a unique set of CG coordinates. This is a function of many parameters such as the hosel length, blade length, toe height, sole width, hosel offset, face thickness, etc. Not only does the CG coordinates changed from model to model, but each club throughout the set. You may wonder why each club is in the set is a different length. That has to do with the weight being different on each head. Where the addition of weight is placed establishes the CG location. You may find that as the loft increases, the CG is shifting higher vertically as well as further behind the axis of the shaft. Yet at the end, the manufacturer ties all this together to make a playable set.

Center of Gravity Golf Club Locations
After years and years of manufacturing and player product testing, loft specifications are set appropriately, especially with the advent of sophisticated launch monitors where distances can be pin pointed exactly. However, there are a few other considerations to why lofts don’t always follow in a nice, neat orderly fashion.

Angle of Attack Golf ClubsAngle of attack
The loft the head was designed and what the loft at impact can be entirely different. For example, we are generally taught with long irons to have more of a shallow swing and with higher lofted clubs to hit more down on the ball. What we are talking about is angle of attack. This varies per person and per club (not to mention swing-to-swing). The club on the left in the diagram is a 5-iron with a loft of 26º, but the player has angle of attack of 3 degrees leaving the face plane with 22º loft at impact. On the right is a 56º sand wedge with the player hitting down at a 6º angle leaving the face plane at 50º. Whenever the player changes their angle of attack and/or impact position on the face, the ball will come off at a different launch angle and spin rate and that is why we experience distance variations with the same club.

Shaft flex
The stiffness of irons and wedges, the vast majority of the time, increases in frequency (cpm) as they reduce in length. For steel shafts it is roughly 4-5 cpm per ½” and with graphite shafts can be less depending upon the trimming instructions. Guess what? The stiffness of the shaft influences the dynamic loft at impact. If you have a more flexible shaft, that helps bow the shaft forward increasing the loft and subsequently altering the trajectory, spin and distance of the ball.

The low down
As you can see that there are a number of parameters (some equipment and other swing related) that influence how far you hit the ball. Having the right combinations of lofts in the set in order to have nice incremental gaps between each club is a must. You’ll often find that the lofts will not always follow the same orderly progression your distances do. If you have problems with gapping, seek a professional club fitter. Often times they can adjust the lofts of your irons and wedges accordingly.


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Set Up Realistic Goals for Scoring One Hole at a Time

At the end of the day, you may look at your aggregate score, but that’s what keeps you going are the personal victories after each hole.

Download Hireko Golf CatalogKeeping score is part of the game of golf and a measure of how well one did on that particular day for personal reasons or to decide how well you fared against an opponent(s). One of the biggest mistakes the vast majority of golfers make is the notion that they will shoot par at the onset of the round rather than looking at what their average score has been in the recent past. Sure, it is great to set goals, but those goals should be realistic.

For example, the player may average 10, 17 or even 28 over par. Believe me none of these players are likely to shoot par (or better) even on their best day. Rather, use your average score as “par” as a practical goal prior to firing a shot off the first tee. Let’s say the 17 over shooter happens to card 20 over for the round. Based on his or her recent score, that is only 3 strokes worse than normal and doesn’t sound dire enough to give up the game.

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But let’s say the same 17 over shooter shot 15 over for the day. When you think about it that is the equivalent of 2 under their “par”. That is far more rewarding than saying, “Shucks, I played well today and was still 15 over par”. This is where the law of averages prevails and the reason why you will want play again.

Golf is so psychological that in order to succeed one has to see the positives instead of dwelling on the negatives. Let’s face it golf is hard, at least for the 99% who play this game. Take the pressure off by following this logic. If you look at your scorecard, there is information aside from the hole number and its length; one of which is handicap. The handicap is a listing of the difficulty of each hole relative to one another on the golf course. If Hole #3 lists the handicap at 14, that means that of the 18 holes on the course 13 are easier and 4 are harder. It is also used when figuring out handicaps but also which hole the player gets a stroke(s) adjusted from their score. Since only 4 out of 5 players don’t maintain a handicap, we will use the latter for our example.

Golf Scorecard

Our 17 over shooter may feel like they fail if they don’t shoot par on a particular hole. But for any hole with a handicap that matches (17) or lower, they are expected to shoot one stroke more than par. That is any par 3 and they realistic goal is 4, on a par 4 it become a 5 and lastly for a par 5 a 6 is a solid score.

For the player shooting 28 over par on average, here is good news for you. Your goal is one additional stoke on all holes and two strokes on any hole with a handicap 10 or less. On our sample scorecard, take a look at Hole #5. This par 4 has an 8 handicap reading meaning that your “par” is really a 6. If you drive the ball into the right rough, play a safety shot which lands short of the green, you pitch the ball onto the green and two-putt, guess what? You made a personal birdie versus a bogie (according to the scorecard).

At the end of the day, you may look at your aggregate score, but that’s what keeps you going are the personal victories after each hole. Don’t start the day with unrealistic goals that may haunt you for the rest of the round. Just like life, every once in a while we have a bad day. But over the course of the week, month and year, things have a way of evening themselves out. If you follow this approach, you are likely to get better than regress. Maybe after 2 or 3 more rounds, that 17 over shooter is now down to a 16 over and has the yearning to get better and play more.