One of the many things my dad has taught me over the years was anytime you put something away, make sure it is clean otherwise you end up taking twice a long the next time you want to use it again. Well, in today’s tech tip I am going to give you some fatherly advice on a common clubmaking task – re-shafting a golf club.
If you search our Blog, you can find out how to remove a graphite or a steel shaft from a club. But there is more to this process that should be done immediately afterwards as I will explain that will save you valuable time and without the added frustration at a later time.
Hosel Clean Up
First, let’s go over the head. After all, if it is to be re-shafted, the prep work starts now. You will find the old epoxy it best cleaned while the epoxy is still warm as it will be much easier to remove. But please make sure to have all your tools handy before you every start the re-shafting process. Plus don’t forget the clubhead will be hot so wear protective heat resistant gloves.
Hosel clean up can be accomplished using of a number items – one of which you will probably find what works best in your shop. To remove the remaining epoxy that is left in the hosel bore you can use an appropriate sized drill bit, a reamer or sandpaper rolls in your hand drill or manually by hand using a hosel cleaning brush. If you wait until the epoxy completely cools and re-hardens, you will have the more laborious task and may have to use either the drill bit or the reamer first, followed by the sandpaper rolls or the hosel cleaning brush. Lastly, it may not hurt to swab the inside of the hosel with a Q-Tip soaked in acetone to remove any oil or left over debris.
Before you go onto the next head and starting this process all over again, don’t forget about the shaft!
Shaft Clean Up
At this point the shaft will have cooled enough to handle, but the epoxy will still be warm or easily removed from the shaft tip. It may be as simple as taking a paper towel or rag and wiping the epoxy off or it may take a quick swipe with a knife or a few twists with a strip of sandpaper to remove what is remaining from the shaft tip. The ferrule on a graphite shaft will have been removed by now, but you may elect to remove it from the steel shaft at this time.
Often times the inside of the shaft tip will be filled with something. If you ever want to reuse the shaft for another project or repair the tip passageway must be cleared in order for air to escape. Let’s start with any tip pin (plug or weight) that might be present from when the club was swingweighted.
Tip pins cannot be reused as the vent hole will be filled with epoxy and there will be no where for the air to escape. I find it best if I put the head of the tip pin in my vise, carefully clamp the jaws just tight enough and then twist the shaft away from it. You may find pliers are just as easy. But if you run across a tip pin from a steel shaft you just can get from the tip end (the head of the tip pin is usually thinner), you can try knocking it out from the butt end. Use a long 1/4” diameter ram rod as it is small enough to fit through the tip opening. You won’t even have to remove the grip as the ram rod will fit through the vent hole cap.
To remove epoxy, a hand drill works just fine. A 6” long 1/8” diameter drill bit is best for graphite shafts. For steel shafts, a 1/4” bit will suffice. In lieu of a drill bit, a ram rod can be used to knock out an epoxy plug from the butt end. Just be very careful with graphite shafts as the opening is very small. I have used for years portion of a CB antenna just for that purpose. The tapered rod measures only 1/8” at the tip end.
Label, Label, Label
Bundle like shafts up by taking a rubber band or masking tape and then labeling what you have, even if there are shaft labels (steel) or graphics (graphite) already on on the shafts Nothing is worse than having a bunch of shafts to sort through or to guess was this shaft for the 6 iron or the 7 iron? When it comes time to repair a broken club or even re-shaft an entire set, the shafts will ready without all the additional work.
Once you get in a routine, these steps will become second nature and should streamline your clubmaking operation for years to come.