How and When to Remove a Ferrule
While we have mentioned in a previous Blog how to safely remove a graphite shaft, one thing we failed to do was say how and when to remove the ferrule. Most novice clubmakers take for granted that you simply just slice the ferrule off prior to putting the club into their shaft puller. Like most procedures, there is a right way and a wrong way to do so. So here are some tips that will make this procedure safe and effective.
Step 1: Leave the ferrule on
This may seem like I am talking in tongues here, but in order to remove the ferrule you need to leave it on first. To explain, remember we need to break the epoxy bond loose with a heat source in order to remove the shaft from the head. There are several reasons why I will leave the ferrule on, one of which it is easier to cut a ferrule that is warmed up than it is cold. Secondly, if you accidentally move your heat source toward the shaft instead of the hosel, the ferrule will help protect it. For a normal ferrule, don’t be scared to add a little heat to it – just so it starts melting it. When I say a little, I mean a little. Try not to totally melt the ferrule otherwise you will have a big mess to clean up.
Step 2: Cut to the chase
Immediately after heating the hosel and a little of the ferrule to start melting it, take a long handled utility knife (I like to use a Hyde knife), then carefully cut the ferrule. The blade should go parallel to the shaft so you do not cut into the fibers.
Also, cut along the back side of the ferrule. Why? In case the knife slips, you will not potentially ruin the finish on a part of the head that is visible especially on painted heads like drivers, fairways and hybrids.
The only case you do not want to cut a ferrule is on some of the thick, thermoplastic specialty ferrules. Examples are the modern Callaway drivers, fairways and hybrids which you are just best off to leave on the shaft and have your shaft puller push against it instead of the top of the hosel. Yes, it will get deformed, but it will be easier to get off later. For those who have tried to cut one of those ferrules with a knife will attest just how hard they are.
Continue cutting through the ferrule until you reach the top of the hosel.
Step 3: Lickety-Split
Now that the ferrule is split, you should be able to peel it away from the shaft. You can use your knife blade to assist you rather than trying to use your fingers or some other type of tool to use.
These steps should take less than a minute as you do not want the hosel or ferrule to become cool. Now you are ready to use you puller to extract the shaft.
Here are a couple more tips to remember. As soon as the shaft is removed from the head, immediately remove any epoxy from inside the hosel. There are a number of items you can use such as sandpaper rolls on a mandrel that can be stuck in your hand drill, to hosel brushes to items you might have lying around like a triangle file shown here.
One other thing to do is to clean the shaft tip of epoxy when it is warm as well. At this point the epoxy can easily be scraped away from the shaft tip with your utility knife. Remember not to dig or gouge into the tip as all you want to do is scrape off loose epoxy so it can be ready for the time you might need to re-use the shaft if it was successfully removed.
Hopefully these tips will help you increase your efficiency in your shop!
7 Things You Shouldn’t Be Paying For
So much money and energy is wasted on things we should get for free. If you’re into expensive bling just to impress your other foursome members then this list is not for you. But if you want more green in your pocket to pay for green fees, then check out these 7 things you shouldn’t be paying for.
7. Excessive Shipping Rates and Same Day Shipping
Tired of rate charts and high shipping rates? Hireko offers a flat rate $7.95 per shipment policy. This is one of the lowest shipping rates in the golf industry! Most orders are shipped the same day as the order is received so long as the order is place before 11AM PST. Same day shipping from Hireko is Free!
6. Technical Support
Need help choosing the correct shaft and grip for your game? We wrote the book on clubmaking and clubfitting! Call our free technical service at 800-942-5872 for the industry’s #1 experts in knowledgeable and free tech support.
5. Extra Charges for Custom Made Clubs
Every club Hireko builds is custom made. Whether you choose to build your clubs with entry level or premium priced shafts and grips, our custom building charge is the same.
4. Costly Online Training
Learn basic and advanced clubmaking and clubfitting techniques for free from the comfort of your home. Hireko offers free online webinars every month to help you improve your skills. Visit our golf webinar page to register.
3. Excessive Marketing Costs
When you buy expensive golf clubs part of your purchase goes to subsidizing extremely large marketing and advertising budgets instead of offering the best product at the best price. Hireko invests our money into Research and Development, customer driven services and its’ free direct to the golfer 172 page catalog. This allows us to keep prices low and offer our popular $7.95 flat rate shipping program.
2. High Prices on Branded Shafts and Grips
You don’t have to pay higher prices for branded shafts and grips when you shop with Hireko. The Hireko Price Match Guarantee protects your pocket book and takes the worry out of shopping for the lowest price on branded shafts and grips. Whatever price you can find online for an item identical to what we carry, WE MATCH IT.
1. $400 drivers, $90 Irons
Hireko drivers sell for on average $99 each custom made and our irons $24.95 each. For the price of a competitors driver, you can buy a whole set of Hireko clubs! Hireko has over 2,000 independent customer reviews as living testimonials to our quality and playability.
Hireko is proud to announce our newest arrival – the Aldila RIP™ shaft. This shaft series has already helped post wins on the major circuits including PGA, European and Nationwide Tours since the beginning of this year, but the highly anticipated shaft is now is finally available to custom clubmakers through Hireko Golf.
The RIP shaft is the culmination of all of the technologies Aldila has unveiled in the past decade. Let’s start with the multi-laminate layers that launched the popularity of the NV series. It also features the carbon nanotubes found in the VS Proto series for added stability. Next, it possesses the S-Core technology prominent in the VooDoo series to increase the “hoop strength” to reduce ovalization so you hit the ball straighter. And now, (drum roll please) the RIP offers new patent-pending technology to enhance all of this.
RIP stands for Reverse Interlaminar Placement and not rest in peace as you might have guessed. Nope, I didn’t make that up. What makes this different is the material lay up design. In graphite shaft construction, the inner layers of fiber wrapped around the mandrel are bias ply, or fibers that are wrapped at a +/- 45º angle. These are added to control torque and resist twisting. Now the outer layers of the shaft contain fibers or layers that run longitudinal to the shaft axis. These are the fibers which control the stiffness of a shaft.
According to those wily engineers over there at Aldila, “the RIP Technology moves a large portion of the bias plies in the tip half of the shafts from the inner core to the outer surface of the shaft. Because material farther away from the shaft center is more efficient in providing stiffness (both torsionally and flexurally) the torque of the shaft can be reduced significantly without the need to employ very expensive, very brittle, high modulus fibers. These more efficient outer bias plies also increase the hoop stiffness of the shaft in the tip section providing for greater shaft stability near the clubhead.”
In a nutshell, the outside-the-box thinking behind the RIP™ technology allows for a shaft with a lower torque, increased tip stability and improved tip stiffness control. For those serious about their game, the RIP is one serious shaft. The Aldila RIP series is available in two different weight options: 60g and 70g and in R, S and X flexes.
Oh, and one other thing let’s not forgot to mention one thing, the graphics on this shaft are way cool too!
|Aldila RIP 60 Graphite shaft $199.95 ea.|
|Aldila RIP 70 Graphite shaft $199.95 ea.|
What’s in the new flyer?
- New 2010 Dynacraft Acer Ti-Ceptional Irons
- New National Media Reviews of the Dynacraft Prophet ICT Driver and Dynacraft Prophet Tour Blade Irons
- New, White Hot Grips
- Smokin’ Low Prices on Ladies Clubs
- Plus 7 Pages Of Closeouts!
Flyer size: 5 meg
You can download from either server below. If one is busy, then download from the other. Enjoy!
if above is busy, then try Google Docs at:
Both sites above download the same flyer.
All shafts for woods are created equally – right? Well not so fast my friend. What was the common practice of using the same shaft for your drivers as you do the fairways may become a thing of the past. One of the more recent trends in club fitting is the use of fairway-specific shafts.
Evolution of the Fairway Wood shaft
Over the years drivers have evolved to be bigger, longer and lighter all in attempts to provide you more distance off of the tee. The fairway wood had undergone changes as well, but not as dramatically. One of the reasons is the fairway wood doesn’t always have the assistance of a tee as golfers are still required to hit the ball as it lie from less than ideal conditions. Therefore the fairway woods need to maintain their smaller and shallow appearance to ensure a low center of gravity capable of extracting the ball from a variety of lies.
By being smaller – about a 1/3 the size of a driver – it is difficult to make the fairways as proportionally as long as the driver and still allow the golfer to make solid contact. Today there is 2” or more difference in the length of a driver and a matching #3 wood. For many years this difference was only 1” regardless of the manufacturer. The majority of driver shafts today are approximately 60g. To take that same shaft and cut another 2 inches or more now makes the shaft pretty darn light. When you think about it, a premium on a fairway wood is more toward a nice balance of accuracy and distance than it is raw distance for the driver.
Weight is one of the biggest differences of the fairway-specific shaft. A fairway wood shaft is typically 10g heavier than the driver shaft. When you think about it, it is still light and not that much heavier, especially when you factor in the reduced length can reduce the weight differential by a couple more grams.
Many of the name brand manufacturers are now using shafts specifically designed for their fairway woods, but as clubmakers and consumer, you have choices from component suppliers like Hireko. For example the True Ace Cadence Red and Orange have fairway specific shafts. There are also some available in the Grafalloy ProLaunch Red and Blue lines. In many cases, the fairway wood shaft is less expensive than the corresponding driver shaft which is always an added bonus.
Here’s some of the selection of graphite fairway wood shafts that Hireko stocks:
Companion Fairway Wood shafts
While we mentioned specific fairway specific shafts, there are groups of shafts in which I like to call companion shafts. That is, these shafts make excellent fairway wood choices and follow the same characteristics of a fairway-specific shaft without being called one.
Some of these companion shafts would be the SK Fiber Tour Trac 80 to the Pure Energy or the New Image Emerald or Silver to the New Image Red Image and lastly the Apollo Shadow graphite to the Shadow UL.
There is also another type of companion shaft – the heavier version of a particular shaft line. For example you might be using an Aldila NV 65. You could use the heavier NV 75 for your fairway woods. Just remember, whatever weight shaft you might be using for your driver, just add another 10g if you goal is a little bit more control.
There are many other examples of a shaft line being available in heavier
options for the fairway woods. UST Mamiya offers many, one being the AxivCore Blue 69 to match the AxivCore Blue 59 for the driver. Fujikura’s Fit-On series has many options to mix a lighter shaft for a driver and have the heavier companion shaft for the fairways.
Don’t be too technical
Don’t read into the specifications too literally. Shaft torque is less of a consideration in a fairway wood as the distance between the axis of the shaft and the club head’s center of gravity is much less than a driver. So don’t be surprised in some cases the fairway-specific version of a certain series may be higher than the driver and show no ill-effects in ball flight or dispersion. Many shafts end up being pigeon-holed as better fairway wood shafts rather than driver shaft for a good reason – they simply work!
But don’t forget, you can still use the same shaft for a driver for the fairways if you have a nice grooved swing tempo and / or you goal is greater distance for an overall lighter club. Not all the major manufacturers use a different shaft for their fairway than their driver. Plus, many golfers are perfectly content with the same shaft for their fairways as they are using in their driver. However, if you are in the market for a new fairway wood because you struggle with your current one, you may want to look at trend to a slight heavier shaft in your fairways.