Properly trimming a golf shaft can be somewhat confusing for the novice clubmaker considering all the different shafts and the number of golf shaft trimming options that are in our catalog or on our website. There is a certain amount of logic involved that goes into the suggested trimming amount for each shaft. The trimming is selected to create a desired flex based upon the weight of each head, the length is might be normally assembled to, plus the length of the parallel tip section of the golf shaft (how long the shaft remains the same diameter as the very tip of the shaft).
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Chart |
1W |
2W |
3W |
4W |
5W |
6W |
7W |
9W |
11W |
13W |
15W |
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N |
1″ |
1.25″ |
1.5″ |
1.75″ |
2″ |
2.25″ |
2.5″ |
2.75″ |
3″ |
3.25″ |
3.5″ |
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Chart |
1W |
2W |
3W |
4W |
5W |
6W |
7W |
9W |
11W |
13W |
15W |
|
D |
1″ |
1.25″ |
1.5″ |
1.75″ |
2″ |
2.25″ |
2.5″ |
2.5″ |
2.5″ |
2.5″ |
2.5″ |
What does the 1” represent in terms of stiffness?
1” additional tip trimming = @ 5 cpm higher
10-15 cpm is generally considered by many of as 1 full flex
While there might be certain times that the clubmakers may deviate from the recommended tip trimming procedure by the manufacturer, it is best to follow the normal tip trimming procedures whenever possible. But if you are in doubt or have a question concerning the proper trimming, contact the distributor or manufacturer of the shaft to get a second opinion as manufacturers will not warrant incorrectly cut shafts.
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The Modern Guide to Clubmaking 4th Edition Book By Jeff Summitt
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Explains in detail the proper procedures for modern clubmaking. Step-by-step photos and text explain how to assemble clubs, trim shafts, install grips – every procedure to properly assemble component clubs. Subjects covered are modern shaft installation, grip installation, swingweighting, putter assembly, iron & wood assembly, common questions and many more.
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February 26th, 2008 at 8:51 am
Jeff,
That is a great article! I have been doing just as you said for a couple of years now. Many have told me that I should not deviate from tip trimming charts but I would argue. I have built several iron sets for friends using stiff flex shafts but cutting them 1 inch less to create “firm shafts”. I see many that regular flex is too flexible and stiff flex are too stiff. There are many golfer’s swings that fit into a mph category needing a shaft flex between regular and stiff.
Thank you for many informative articles about golf and club building.
Tim Bowen
February 28th, 2008 at 10:59 pm
Okay….good info for changing the stiffness of a shaft, but what if you want the same flex for either a longer length club , or a shorter length club? If you have a lady measure for a 36 1/2″ 5 iron and the shaft spec shows a 1″ tip for a 37″ length club how do you get the same flex for her? Would you only take off 1/2″ at the tip and cut the shaft length to the measured 36 1/2″ so you would get the same flex?
February 29th, 2008 at 7:27 am
Charles:
That is not an easy question to answer because it depends as a clubmaker what you do. If you simply make the club shorter, then the swingweight will be lower as a result. You could do one of two things. The first is nothing and the swingweight will be lighter and the shaft itself will be stiffer. However you are cutting off the stiffest portion of the shaft, which is the butt end which somewhat negates some of the stiffening effect. You could elect to tip trim less to offset this and provide more feel.
The other thing you could do is add weight via a tip weight. In this case, the additional headweight will offset the stiffening of the shaft by making it shorter. If you do this, then no alteration in tip trimming would be needed.
For longer clubs, in general I do not adjust tip trimming over what I selected in the fitting process. Yes, the longer shaft is more flexible, but it possesses the stiffest portion of the shaft. Since you cannot lighten the head weight (very few exceptions), the heavier swingweight offsets the fact you have the stiffer butt end.
March 1st, 2008 at 11:49 pm
Thanks Jeff….I agree with you 100%….I cannot get a competitor of yours to agree with this…so I guess I know I will come to your company more in the future! I also now have more faith in ordering the finished sets from you too! The research you guys did was phenomenal! You finally did the dirty work to prove what we clubmakers have always suspected! Thanks!
March 7th, 2008 at 3:37 pm
Thank You, I have done that before with steel shafts,with great success, but I did not know it could be done with graphite shafts. Thank You, John
December 1st, 2008 at 12:07 am
Hi Jeff
Good Stuff
I have an iron set with TT Light XL in R flex. Lets say if I cut 2.5″ from every club and put a plug of that length at the butt end, will this change it to a S flex. How will this affect the swing weight. And lastly is it a good idea to leave the 3,4,5 irons in the R Flex.
Maqsood Ali
Edmonton Alberta Canada
December 1st, 2008 at 11:00 am
Massood:
Actually there is a 2″ difference between R and S-flex in the TT Lite XL. You could do what you are asking for but only cut 2″ off of the tip and extend the same. It is not recommended to extend the shafts any longer than 2″, otherwise there is a possibility of breakage.
December 2nd, 2008 at 10:27 pm
Thanks Jeff
Does the same apply to UST SR2 (in Nickent irons) if I want to stiffen them.
Maqsood Ali
December 3rd, 2008 at 8:23 am
Maqsood:
Graphite is less predictable than steel when tip trimming additionally for flex. It may very well be less than 2″ to create a S-flex from an R-flex shaft. The limit on the extension still applies. But the main concern is graphite shafts have far less parallel tip section than steel shafts. Chances are you could run out of parallel tip section and not be able to install the shafts back into the clubhead without reaming the hosel larger.
April 24th, 2009 at 6:16 am
i’ve read some warnings saying that dynamic gold taper tip shouldnt be tip trimmed.
is that true?
i’ve got a 4i shaft that i want to put into a 6i, should the tip be trimmed 1″ to keep the same flex while providing the correct length?
April 24th, 2009 at 10:14 am
Tony:
If you tip trim any taper tip steel shaft, you will not be able to insert the shaft fully into the hosel as it will increase in diameter. You could tip the shaft to maintain the flex, but it will require you to re-bore the hosel to accommodate the now larger tipped shaft.
April 25th, 2009 at 1:21 am
thanks jeff, so my s300 4i shaft will be more like a regular flex if it is butt trimmed and put in the 6i?
April 26th, 2009 at 4:53 am
Tony:
It will play half way between R and S-flex.
May 17th, 2009 at 10:43 am
I have a adams speedline with a prolaunch blue axis stiff shaft. The shaft is a little bit too stiff for me. I would also like a slightly longer shaft. If I extend the shaft by 1-1.5″ will that soften the flex ?
May 18th, 2009 at 5:34 am
Bill:
Not really because you will adding to the stiffest portion of the shaft. Luckily the swingweight will increase to offset this affect so essentially it will be a wash and end up being the same flex. You would be best off re-shafting with a more flexible shaft.