What is a ferrule and do I need one?

First of all, the ferrule is the black piece located just above the hosel.
The purpose of a ferrule is to provide a smooth transition from the top
of the hosel into the shaft. For the most part it is to provide a nice
cosmetic element to the golf club. The ferrules are typically manufactured
from plastic and may be all black or have colored trim rings attached.
Ferrules can be grouped into two categories: standard and repair ferrules.
We will discuss repair ferrules a little later.Do you need one? Well, it really depends upon the clubhead. If the top
of the hosel of the clubhead is flat or square, it is intended to have
a ferrule installed. Nearly all clubheads are made this way today. However,
certain clubhead have been made with a beveled hosel, or one that tapers
slightly at the top, that is not intended to be used with a ferrule. A
prime example of this type of hosel is the Ping iron heads.Selecting ferrules is not only of a cosmetic discussion, but one of which
one(s) fit best. There are ferrules manufactured to different inside diameters
to accommodate all different shaft tips. In addition, the outside diameters
of a ferrule all don’t have the same exact diameter. Keep in mind
as well that the hosels of clubheads aren’t all the same size either.
Knowing these dimensions can save you time when ordering.

In years past, the outside diameter of the ferrule was typically larger
than the average hosel, so that the clubmaker could be “turn down”
or sand the ferrule flush with the outside diameter of the hosel to provide
a smooth transition. Many clubmakers find turning ferrules takes up valuable
time or they simply don’t have the right equipment to do so. To eliminate
the need for sanding the ferrules it is useful to have an appropriate
sized ferrule. However, in the case where the ferrule is undersized then
this shows poor workmanship. The best scenario is to find a ferrule that
fits almost precisely. Please realize that there are tolerances with the
outside diameters of the hosels as they are hand polished during the finishing
process. Therefore the ferrules and hosel will not match outside diameter
for outside diameter each time. This is the reason why turning down the
ferrule is the most acceptable method.

At Hireko, we try to manufacturer all our iron heads with approximately
the same diameter (.540” or 13.7mm) so most of our ferrules we stock
fit very close. Woods on the other hand may not all have the same diameters
because of the different materials the hosels are made from and the dimensions
needed for strength. Many titanium drivers have hosel diameters close
to .500” (12.7mm), while stainless steel fairway woods measure closer
to 0.480” (or 12.2mm). Add in aluminum woods, and you have a third
dimension of @ 0.515” (13mm). Since aluminum woods are not found
often today, most wood ferrules are made closer to the 0.500” outside
diameter for both titanium drivers and stainless fairways alike. The ferrules
on the fairways will need to be sanded to size.

There are other types of ferrules you will see. One of which is called
a “collared” ferrule. These ferrules have a flange below the
ferrule itself that fit into the countersunk portion of the hosel in order
to reduce stress of the shaft. The collared ferrules are precision manufactured
pieces. However, the countersink of a clubhead is done quickly at the
foundry to remove any material from the interior of the hosel. Unfortunately,
it may be required to re-countersink the hosel in order for the collared
ferrule to fit flush. If you don’t use a collared ferrule, epoxy
will fill the gap where the countersink of the hosel is.

Another group of ferrules are referred to as repair ferrules. These are
specialty ferrules for different applications or for specific clubhead
designs (normally large OEM manufacturers). Some ferrules will react as
hosel reducers to allow a smaller diameter shaft to fit inside a slightly
larger hosel diameter. Many OEM manufacturers have .350” hosels,
but there are not as many .350” shafts to choose from. So a special
ferrule can act as the ferrule, plus reduce the hosel opening to .335”
in order to have access to many more models. This is a totally acceptable
practice that will not compromise the shaft if properly installed.

Occasionally, you will run into a clubhead that will require a specific
ferrule all onto itself. A couple of examples would be the Ping ISI and
Wilson Fat Shaft models. In some cases, a special aftermarket replacement
ferrule will be manufactured by an independent ferrule producer if they
feel there will be sufficient request. Tooling for small plastic parts
is very expensive. It should be noted that the manufacturer of the heads
will not usually offer for sale the special ferrule they use in their
own clubheads.

Hopefully, this will help explain the reason for the ferrule and how
to order them in the future. One other word of wisdom, when selecting
the length of the ferrule, it should be proportional to the length of
the hosel.

by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director


  1. Jim Culhane says:

    Do you know where I could buy replacement ferrules for Wilson Fat Shaft irons?

  2. Jeff Summitt says:


    For irons – none! I can’t remember any company selling an aftermarket replacement even when they were on store shelves and Wilson won’t sell parts.

  3. Peter Sachs says:

    I am looking for ferrules that match Adams Idea Pro Black 9031 and Idea super 9031 hybrids, do you have them or do you know where to get them?

    Best regards Peter

  4. Jeff Summitt says:


    We don’t carry the ferrules with the single silver trim ring, however we do sell ones with two silver trim rings.

  5. Craig says:

    Hi there, I’m looking for replacement ferrules for Wilson Di7 irons please.


  6. Jeff Summitt says:


    I am afraid you won’t find any ferrules / trim rings to fit the oddball size (0.450″) shaft tip.

  7. Ken says:

    Doi really need a ferrule? I am reshafting a taylormade slider with a pro launch stuff flex graphite shaft. Will it make a difference if I don’t use one?

  8. Jeff Summitt says:


    What SLDR are you re-shafting? For example, iron, driver, hybrid, etc. Plus, if the is a driver / mini driver, which model do you have?

  9. Ken says:

    It is the 3wood

  10. Jeff Summitt says:


    TaylorMade makes two different versions of the SLDR. One has the adjustable adapter with the bolt that locks it into the head. The specialty ferrule indicates what the settings are at so it is important to have. The other (SLDR S) is the bonded or epoxied version. TaylorMade’s recent models have a counterbore where a ferrule with a flange will fit down inside the hosel and offers protection at the top leading edge of the hosel. So in both cases a ferrule is relevant.

  11. Ken says:

    It is the epoxy kind.
    Where can I get the correct one?

  12. Jeff Summitt says:


    I have not re-shafted this model so I am unsure if it takes the same ferrule as the bonded RBZ fairway. The models for that club are GDW5209 for a 0.335″ shaft and GDW5210 for a 0.350″ shaft.

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