As an initial step in the thru-bore reshaft, check the specifications
of the club being repaired. Most repair shops will use some type of repair
tag to identify not only who the club belongs to but also some of the
following specifications: club model and the number of club, swingweight,
length, grip, grip size, shaft and shaft flex. Also recommended, if you
have the equipment, is measuring the gram weight of the head. If a loft/lie
machine is available, check the loft and lie specification of the wood
or iron, as well as the face angle specifications on a wood. You may also
want to check shaft frequency or deflection if you have a machine to do
so. A torque measurement can be checked if you have a torque machine.
You can create a customer file with this information that can prove to
be valuable for future reference, not only for this customer but for other
customers as well. Gathering this information can serve to be valuable
self-educational material. It is now time to remove the shaft from the
head:

Shaft Removal (Steel Shafts)

The standard procedure for removing steel shafts from bore-thru heads
is to drill out from the bottom of the shaft the plug that is inside the
shaft. Once the plug is out, use a heating rod and heat the rod almost
red hot and insert it into the tip end of the shaft. By applying heat
from the inside of the shaft, the head is heated from the inside out.
What this does more than anything else is to ensure that no heat marks
form on the clubhead itself. Many clubheads have either a painted finish
or a clear coat finish applied to them; they can burn and show heat marks
very easily. Heating from the inside out enables you to maintain a good
clean cosmetic look to the clubhead.

Next clamp the shaft in a vise clamp and secure the club in a vise. Put
the vise clamp on the
shaft close to the head. This will help to hold the club more securely
in the vise; plus when you grab the head to pull and twist it loose from
the shaft you will be pulling against the taper of the shaft. With the
heat rod inserted in the inside of the shaft you will be able to feel
the heat transferring through the clubhead by touching the hosel of the
clubhead. We caution letting the clubhead getting to hot by this method.
Too much heat could again cause heat marks or burn the finish on the clubhead.
Once you feel the clubhead getting warm enough put on a pair a gloves,
hold the clubhead in your hands and twist and pull until the clubhead
comes loose from the shaft.

If you follow this method and are unable to remove the head by pulling
and twisting it loose from the shaft you will need to repeat the heating
process again. Using this method of heating from the inside out can mean
following this procedure a few times to create enough heat to be able
to remove the head from the shaft. Be Patient. However, if you have followed
this procedure a few times and are still unable to remove the head, take
the following steps. Again heat the rod almost red hot and insert it into
the tip of the shaft. Then using a head gun or torch, apply heat to the
backside of the hosel only and keep it to a minimum to avoid creating
heat marks on the head. The reason to heat the backside of the hosel is
so that if any heat marks are created that cannot be removed from the
head they will not be visible when the clubhead is in the playing position.

Shaft Removal (Graphite Shafts)

If you are removing an existing shaft from a bore-thru and you want to
save that existing shaft, use the following method. Most importantly,
remember, when removing a clubhead from a graphite shaft it is important
that the clubhead be removed by pulling it straight off the shaft. Twisting
and pulling on the clubhead to remove it from the shaft will more often
then not result in shaft tip failure. A graphite shaft puller is a must
for this job.

Clamp the graphite shaft securely into the shaft puller and follow the
instructions for the shaft puller. (You can also use a pry bar to remove
the shaft. If you are using the pry bar put the shaft in a vise clamp
and secure it in the bench vise.) You are now ready to apply heat to the
head for the purpose of removing the head from the shaft. Use a torch
as the method of heating. Apply heat to the backside of the hosel only
for a period of 15 seconds. At this time if you are using a Mitchell shaft
puller, the head should be forced off by the pressure of the spring. If
you are using the pry bar, position the pry bar between the top of the
hosel and the side of the bench vise and apply pressure to the bar to
force or pry the clubhead from the shaft. If the clubhead does not come
off at this point, wait one minute and reheat for a period of 10 seconds.
Continue this method of heat for 10 seconds/wait for 1 minute in between
until the shaft puller has forced the clubhead from the shaft or you are
able to pry the clubhead from the shaft using the pry bar. Again, be patient.
Sometimes these steps will have to be repeated as many as 3 or 4 times
before successfully removing the graphite shaft from the clubhead. The
more pressure that the shaft puller applies the less heat it takes to
remove the shaft from the clubhead.

Clubhead Cleanup

As soon as the clubhead is removed from the shaft, clean out the hosel
bore while the clubhead is still warm. This can be done in a number of
different ways. You can use a drill bit, a reamer or a hosel cleaning
brush to remove the remaining epoxy that is in the hosel bore. It may
work best to use either the drill bit or the reamer first, followed by
the hosel cleaning brush. If you do this while the head is still warm
the old epoxy is still soft and it removes very easily. Following these
steps will remove the old epoxy; the hosel cleaning brush also helps to
abrade the inside of the hosel for the new shaft.

If there are heat marks on the clubhead, you may have some success removing
or cleaning them by using unstitched buffing wheels and a Glanz Wach compound.
The buffing wheels should be turning at a fairly slow rate of speed, between
800 and 1000 rpms. Work the Glanz Wach compound into the buffing wheels
and buff the clubhead. The success rate of this procedure depends on how
extreme the heat marks on the clubhead and the type of finish that has
been used on the clubhead. Unfortunately there are no guarantees on saving
or renewing finishes on metal wood heads.

Shaft Installation Procedures

In preparing the new shaft for installation you should identify any tip
cutting instructions that would apply to the shaft you are using. Once
that has been done you can prepare the shaft tip for installation. In
a bore-thru assembly it is recommended that the shaft go all the way through
the bottom of the clubhead. If you didn’t make certain that the shaft
tip went through the club’s sole and were to put a plug into the
bottom of the clubhead changing it from a bore-thru to a blind bore assembly
you could possibly end up with less then 1” of shaft penetration
into the clubhead. This could cause excessive stress and strain on the
tip of the shaft and lead to shaft failure.

Cut the angle of the shaft at the bottom of the bore-thru before you
epoxy the shaft into the clubhead. First lightly sand the tip of the shaft
and then insert it into the clubhead. With the shaft tip extended through
the bottom of the clubhead, use a marking pen and trace the angle from
the bottom of the clubhead onto the shaft. Be sure to orient the silk
screen on the shaft into the position that you want it to be in before
tracing the angle from the bottom of the shaft. Once this is done you
can remove the shaft from the clubhead and prepare to establish the angle
cut on the shaft. This can be done in a number of different ways depending
on the equipment that you have available. You could grind the angle using
a bench grinder. You could also grind the angle using a 1” belt sander/grinder
by grinding against the metal platen that backs the sanding belt. You
could use a disk sanding wheel to grind the angle. You could cut the angle
on a chop saw or on bench grinder equipped with an abrasive cut off wheel.
A Dremel Moto Tool equipped with a cut off wheel could also be used. Do
not be concerned with getting this angle to fit perfectly at this time.
Do a test fit of the shaft into the clubhead and see how close the angle
fits at the bottom of the clubhead. If need be you can do some additional
grinding and shaping of the tip of the shaft and test fit again. The better
you can make it fit at this point the less work you will have to do later.

The next step is to epoxy the shaft into the clubhead. Be sure to do
the proper amount of tip abrasion whether you are using a steel or graphite
shaft. Lightly coat the inside of the hosel and the tip of the shaft with
epoxy. Install the ferrule of your choice and insert the shaft tip into
the clubhead rotating the shaft and working it in and out of the hosel
to make sure that you have proper coverage of epoxy on the shaft tip.
It is best to extend the tip of the shaft just slightly below the bottom
of the soleplate so that when you are finished with this club you will
be able to see the shaft tip. Clean up any excess epoxy from the clubhead
or shaft. If you have installed a graphite shaft, use a thru-bore plug
(code TBP) to plug the hole in the center of the shaft. You may have to
sand or shape the plug in order to make it fit into the tip of the shaft.
Do this test fit of the plug prior to gluing the shaft into the clubhead.
Put some epoxy on the tip of the thru-bore plug and tap it in place into
the tip of the shaft and clean up any excess epoxy. At this point it would
be best dry the club with the shaft lying on a table and the head hanging
over the table’s edge. Be sure to align the shaft and clean up any
excess epoxy. Note: if you prefer you could epoxy the shaft into the clubhead
and let the club dry and then insert the thru-bore plug. This does add
more time to the job though.

If you install a steel shaft into the thru-bore the above steps would
be the same with the exception of plugging the tip of the shaft – you
use a larger plug (code TBP1) instead of the smaller TBP. As before, the
shaft angle is cut before the shaft is epoxied into the clubhead.

Soleplate Cleanup

Once the epoxy has properly set up and is cured it is time to finish
the sole of the club. You will notice that bore-thru metalwoods have a
satin finish on the sole of the club. This makes finishing them much easier
than if the clubheads were a high polished finish. Take note that the
satin finish runs from the heal to the toe on the sole of the club. You
want to maintain that pattern when you are reestablishing the finish on
bottom of the club. To finish the thru-bore plug, you would first cut
away the excess part of the plug as close to the sole of the clubhead
as you can. To reestablish the finish on the bottom of the club there
are a number of methods that could be used. They can be done by hand using
a combination of files, and or different grits of sand paper to remove
the excess material and reestablish the satin finish. Whether you start
with the file or the sand paper depends on how much material needs to
be removed from bottom of the club. You want to remove material without
creating any heavy scratch marks. Always work towards the goal of obtaining
that nice satin finish on the bottom of the clubhead. We recommend always
working from heel to toe to maintain the “grain” of the satin
finish.

A Metal Finishing Wheel (coe MWF) attached to a bench grinder works well
for removing small amounts of material and maintaining the satin finish
on the bottom of the club. This wheel is very good for removing small
amounts of material, even steel, as well as maintaining the satin finish
on the sole of the club. We have also used a small hard drum sander, especially
if there is a little more material to be removed. Any method that you
are comfortable with that will remove the material without creating heavy
scratches and works toward maintaining the satin finish can be used here.
If the clubhead is a Callaway, which has a bi-concave sole, a Dremel Moto
Tool with a small grinding stone works very well for removing the excess
shaft material, graphite or steel. The Dremel Moto Tool will work very
well with any bore-thru metalwood head for removing excess shaft material
on a bore-thru head. As a final step in finishing the soleplate of the
bore-thru metalwood, use a nylon wheel to create and blend in the satin
finish over the whole soleplate of the clubhead. Something as simple as
the Medium Shurebrite Wheel mounted in a drill can do this job very well
also.

Installing shafts in thru-bore clubs presents unique challenges to the
clubmaker. By following the above procedures, accurate reshafts will be
a result; your customers will be amazed at the quality and accuracy of
your work. Practice on a few old clubs first if possible, then consider
yourself competent at one of the more difficult repair jobs found today!

by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director
jsummitt@hirekogolf.com

3 Comments on Reshafting thru-bore hosel clubheads

  1. Kris says:

    Thanks for the information. It was just what I was looking for. Great help!

  2. willie nadonza says:

    there is a step missing before you apply the glue to the end of the shaft. there is a plastic inserts to be plug to the end of the shaft before gluing do you know what it is? cant find it thru google pls let me know

  3. Jeff Summitt says:

    Willie,

    I am not exactly sure what step it missing to be able to answer your question better. The shaft is going to penetrate through the sole. You can either try to pre-grind the shaft to come close to the contour of the sole or after the epoxy has dried. Then the next step is to epoxy the tapered plastic thru bore plug into the shaft and allow to dry (fast-setting epoxy is fine). Then cut the plug and sand flush with the bottom of the sole.

Leave a Reply