|There is a heat advisory out, and I am not talking about the weather.
The heat advisory is going out on a couple metal woods when trying to safely
remove the graphite shafts. These particular clubs are the new Titleist
983 K & E, all Nike titanium drivers and the Kasco’s metal woods made
with the Super Hyten alloy material.If you have ever tried to remove a graphite shafts from any of these
heads and wondered when (or if) the epoxy bond would ever be broken, you are not alone. For whatever reason, the alloys of thse metal woods seem to displace the heat rather than have the heat build up as a heat sink. These particular clubs can have their graphite shafts removed safely, but the key is patience and the duration of heat. It will require longer periods of time with your heat source, so one needs to be very careful not to discolor the paint. Of course the easy way to avoid discoloring each of these heads is to cut the shaft off at the top of the hosel and drill out the graphite shaft. There is no problems with either the Titleist or the Kasco models which have bore thru hosels. However, you need to be careful not to drill through the hosel stop and push the graphite fibers into the large cavities of the Nike drivers and the non-thru bore Kasco models.If you get one of these models in your shop, you might explain to your customer the potential to discoloring the head if they would like to save the shaft. However, the shaft can be removed with a good puller and again, patience is the key.
by Jeff Summitt
|Today’s tip takes a look at bore types and how to trim shafts accordingly.
As you look at a shaft’s trimming instructions and see a trim note that
references bore type, trimming must be adjusted accordingly to maintain
the flex profile of that particular shaft. Remember, if there is no reference
to a trim note related to bore type, do not add to the shaft trimming.
Here’s a look at how to understand shaft trimming and how it is related
to bore type:
Initially we must define what is meant by though bore, blind bore, M1
Our catalog defines all of our models as to bore type. But what if you
But what if the measure is not exactly as stated above? Let’s say you
When shafting irons, you can somewhat follow the same rule. The standard
Hopefully this tip will help to clarify tip trimming measurements. Remember,
by Jeff Summitt
This tip involves the proper installation of graphite or composite shafts
1. Always use special formulated 24 hour cure epoxy on any shafting operation.
Some epoxies found at a hardware store may work, but be on the safe side
2. Don’t overuse epoxy. It only takes a small coating of epoxy on the
3. Always make certain that the head you are using has been properly
4. Always abrade the shaft tip the entire length of the insertion depth
5. Never use a tubing cutter to cut graphite as shy away from using a
6. Be cautious when clamping a shaft for gripping or any assembly/repair
by Jeff Summitt, Hireko Technical Director
|First of all, the ferrule is the black piece located just above the hosel.
The purpose of a ferrule is to provide a smooth transition from the top
of the hosel into the shaft. For the most part it is to provide a nice
cosmetic element to the golf club. The ferrules are typically manufactured
from plastic and may be all black or have colored trim rings attached.
Ferrules can be grouped into two categories: standard and repair ferrules.
We will discuss repair ferrules a little later.Do you need one? Well, it really depends upon the clubhead. If the top
of the hosel of the clubhead is flat or square, it is intended to have
a ferrule installed. Nearly all clubheads are made this way today. However,
certain clubhead have been made with a beveled hosel, or one that tapers
slightly at the top, that is not intended to be used with a ferrule. A
prime example of this type of hosel is the Ping iron heads.Selecting ferrules is not only of a cosmetic discussion, but one of which
one(s) fit best. There are ferrules manufactured to different inside diameters
to accommodate all different shaft tips. In addition, the outside diameters
of a ferrule all don’t have the same exact diameter. Keep in mind
as well that the hosels of clubheads aren’t all the same size either.
Knowing these dimensions can save you time when ordering.
In years past, the outside diameter of the ferrule was typically larger
At Hireko, we try to manufacturer all our iron heads with approximately
There are other types of ferrules you will see. One of which is called
Another group of ferrules are referred to as repair ferrules. These are
Occasionally, you will run into a clubhead that will require a specific
Hopefully, this will help explain the reason for the ferrule and how
by Jeff Summitt
|One word that gets bantered around a lot is standards. Let’s first
take a look at the word “standard” and how it relates to golf
clubs. According to the dictionary, it is described as:“Something considered by an authority or by general consent as a
basis of comparison; an approved model.”The golf industry is not tied to a universal governing body that regulates
all of the specifications that clubs are built to. The closest thing to
that are the United States Golf Association and the Royal & Ancient
Golf Club of St. Andrews, which does list specific rules pertaining to
equipment. Some of what is covered in the “Rules of Golf” (Appendix
II) is a maximum on volume (or size of the head), groove depth and width,
coefficient of restitution and club length. However, many of the specifications
that you may have heard of or familiar with are not regulated and the
manufacturers are free to design as they may (obviously within limits).Some of the specifications such as loft, lie and face angle vary by manufacturer to manufacturer or within the same companies offering of clubs. Loft or lie may vary in the same company’s product line because of who the
model is designed for. The loft may be stronger if the center of gravity
is further back behind the face or the lie may be more upright if it was
design for the mid or higher handicapped golfer. It is not that hard to
see 3 or 4 degrees difference in these two specifications. However, each
and every company measures these specifications nearly identical as there
are heavy duty specification gauges to help register the club by the foundry,
plus the design and QC departments of the golf club company.
Other specifications such as flex, torque and even grip size are more
company’s model with a similar nomenclature. The reason behind this
The same could be said of grip size as well, as one company’s mid-size
Length is surely one specification that ought to have a “standard”.
It is possible to go to several different club fitters and get completely
While lacking standards among golf clubs, you as a custom clubmaker,
Hopefully you will use the word “standard” as a reference only.
“The only standard there is in the golf industry is there are no standards.” Jeff Summitt
by Jeff Summitt
In this section, you will see technical articles and tips for assembly and repairing golf clubs. Continue reading “Golf Clubmaking and Golf Club Repair” »
|Are you having difficulty removing a broken shaft from a Ping putter?
Even though you make have heated the hosel cherry red, you still cannot
remove that remaining piece of shaft? What may look like a simple repair
may actually turn into a chore not for the faint of heart. Chance are
there may be a small ball bearing inside the shaft preventing the shaft
from coming out. On certain Ping putters a small ball bearing is cooled to allow it to shrink, then inserted down to the bottom of a tapered shaft so that when it achieves
a normal temperature it expands and forms some sort a mechanical lock
(supposedly to make the putter feel more solid). Here is one way on how
to fix that problem.The first thing to do is ask permission from the customer because some
drilling will be involved. If the customer asks “What is my other
option?” tell the customer they could send it back to Ping to have
them fix it. Once you have the OK, then you want to place the putter in
a padded vise with the hosel pointing down. Some of these putters (like
an Anser 2) have a spur-like hosel and you want to see the bottom of it.Carefully, take a 1/8″ drill bit and go through the spur-like hosel
to penetrate where the center of the hosel (or shaft) is. You want to
save any of the metal shavings as you will need them later. Once you have
drilled though the bottom of the hosel, take a 1/8″ pin punch and
drive the ball bearing up from the tip of the shaft. Now you heat up the
hosel to remove the broken shaft.Next after the putter has cooled, you can epoxy the new shaft (it will
require a .355” taper tip model) and mix the metal shaving in with
some epoxy and fill the hole in the bottom of the head. If you didn’t
save any of the shaving, you could go to a hardware store or some place
that cuts keys. They will be more than happy to give you the metal shavings
left around the key cutter. (Note: it will not be necessary to put the
ball bearing back inside the shaft – save it as a souvenir)by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director