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Archives for April 2007 | Hireko Golf Blog - Page 3

Tip for removing graphite shafts on some Titleist, Nike, and Kasco golf clubs

There is a heat advisory out, and I am not talking about the weather.
The heat advisory is going out on a couple metal woods when trying to safely
remove the graphite shafts. These particular clubs are the new Titleist
983 K & E, all Nike titanium drivers and the Kasco’s metal woods made
with the Super Hyten alloy material.If you have ever tried to remove a graphite shafts from any of these
heads and wondered when (or if) the epoxy bond would ever be broken, you are not alone. For whatever reason, the alloys of thse metal woods seem to displace the heat rather than have the heat build up as a heat sink. These particular clubs can have their graphite shafts removed safely, but the key is patience and the duration of heat. It will require longer periods of time with your heat source, so one needs to be very careful not to discolor the paint. Of course the easy way to avoid discoloring each of these heads is to cut the shaft off at the top of the hosel and drill out the graphite shaft. There is no problems with either the Titleist or the Kasco models which have bore thru hosels. However, you need to be careful not to drill through the hosel stop and push the graphite fibers into the large cavities of the Nike drivers and the non-thru bore Kasco models.If you get one of these models in your shop, you might explain to your customer the potential to discoloring the head if they would like to save the shaft. However, the shaft can be removed with a good puller and again, patience is the key.

by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director

Golf shaft tip trimming and how to determine the hosel bore type

Today’s tip takes a look at bore types and how to trim shafts accordingly.
As you look at a shaft’s trimming instructions and see a trim note that
references bore type, trimming must be adjusted accordingly to maintain
the flex profile of that particular shaft. Remember, if there is no reference
to a trim note related to bore type, do not add to the shaft trimming.
Here’s a look at how to understand shaft trimming and how it is related
to bore type:

Initially we must define what is meant by though bore, blind bore, M1
and M2 related to metal wood tip trimming. A through bore (also spelled
thru-bore) shaft is one that penetrates through the bottom of the club.
You can see the where the shaft exits of the head; or at least ends at
the sole of the club. A blind bore is one in which the shaft bottoms out
1/2″ from the groundline. An M2 bottoms out at 1″; an M1 bottoms
out 1 1/2″ from the groundline.

Our catalog defines all of our models as to bore type. But what if you
are working with a non-Hireko head? How is bore type determined? It’s
really very simple. Take a shaft and measure its length. Let’s say it
measures 45″ for example. Put the shaft in the hosel of the club
into which it will be installed. Measure the length of the club with this
shaft test fitted into it. If it is 45 1/2″, it is a blind bore.
A measurement of 46″ indicates an M2; a measure of 46 1/2″ shows
that the head is an M1. That’s all there is to it. Then simply follow
the trimming instructions found in the catalog for proper shaft trimming.

But what if the measure is not exactly as stated above? Let’s say you
get 46 1/4″. Simply adjust the trimming accordingly. This measure
is between an M1 and M2. You can look at the M1 trimming and then trim
1/4″ less than the instructions specify or you can look at the club
as an M2 and trim 1/4″ more. It’s that easy!

When shafting irons, you can somewhat follow the same rule. The standard
bottom of bore to groundline in irons is 1″. Adjustments can be made
if this measure is different than the 1″ standard. If the measure
is less than 1″, you will trim less off the shaft; equal to how much
less than 1″ the measure is. If the measure is more than 1″,
you will trim that much more from the shaft than the trimming instructions

Hopefully this tip will help to clarify tip trimming measurements. Remember,
any time that you have questions, feel free to call us at 800-367-8912
or 800-321-4833 or check us out on the Forums at www.hirekogolf.com; we’ll
be happy to be of help!

by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director

Graphite golf shaft preparation

This tip involves the proper installation of graphite or composite shafts
into clubheads. Here are some helpful ideas.

1. Always use special formulated 24 hour cure epoxy on any shafting operation.
The longer cures will ensure longer lasting and more consistent bonding
between the shaft and the head.

Some epoxies found at a hardware store may work, but be on the safe side
and purchase the epoxy from your component supplier that is specifically
designed to withstand the high shear stress on the shaft tip.

2. Don’t overuse epoxy. It only takes a small coating of epoxy on the
shaft and/or hosel; excess epoxy tends to go up inside the shaft creating
a shear point at the top of the hosel leading to shaft breakage. Epoxy
inside a graphite shaft is one of the leading causes of shaft failure
according to the returns we receive from customers. Shaft companies and
component supplier will not warrant these types of assemblies.

3. Always make certain that the head you are using has been properly
countersunk or coned approximately 20 degrees. This coning eliminates
any sharp area where the shaft flexes at the top of the hosel, potentially
reducing the probability of shaft breakage. Note: All Hireko heads are
countersunk at the foundry, thus eliminating this step when using our
heads. However, it may be necessary when re-shafting older clubs or ones
that the hosel had to be re-bored. Some heads may be counter-bored, which
may require the use of special collared ferrules.

4. Always abrade the shaft tip the entire length of the insertion depth
of the head. If the head requires a ferrule (like most do), you can continue
abrading to position ½ way up inside the ferrule. Sandpaper by
hand using a “shoe shine” method works well as does a special
graphite tip abrasion belt on a 1″ X 42″ belt sander. Even if
there is no paint on the shaft tip always abrade the shaft for better

5. Never use a tubing cutter to cut graphite as shy away from using a
standard hacksaw blade as it can splinter the shaft. A cutoff wheel or
grit edge blade works well. A chop saw is also acceptable. Remember to
measure twice and cut once, especially with some of the very high graphite
shafts available today.

6. Be cautious when clamping a shaft for gripping or any assembly/repair
work that requires the shaft to be in a vise. Using too much pressure
can crack the shaft, especially lighter shafts.

by Jeff Summitt, Hireko Technical Director

What is a ferrule and do I need one?

First of all, the ferrule is the black piece located just above the hosel.
The purpose of a ferrule is to provide a smooth transition from the top
of the hosel into the shaft. For the most part it is to provide a nice
cosmetic element to the golf club. The ferrules are typically manufactured
from plastic and may be all black or have colored trim rings attached.
Ferrules can be grouped into two categories: standard and repair ferrules.
We will discuss repair ferrules a little later.Do you need one? Well, it really depends upon the clubhead. If the top
of the hosel of the clubhead is flat or square, it is intended to have
a ferrule installed. Nearly all clubheads are made this way today. However,
certain clubhead have been made with a beveled hosel, or one that tapers
slightly at the top, that is not intended to be used with a ferrule. A
prime example of this type of hosel is the Ping iron heads.Selecting ferrules is not only of a cosmetic discussion, but one of which
one(s) fit best. There are ferrules manufactured to different inside diameters
to accommodate all different shaft tips. In addition, the outside diameters
of a ferrule all don’t have the same exact diameter. Keep in mind
as well that the hosels of clubheads aren’t all the same size either.
Knowing these dimensions can save you time when ordering.

In years past, the outside diameter of the ferrule was typically larger
than the average hosel, so that the clubmaker could be “turn down”
or sand the ferrule flush with the outside diameter of the hosel to provide
a smooth transition. Many clubmakers find turning ferrules takes up valuable
time or they simply don’t have the right equipment to do so. To eliminate
the need for sanding the ferrules it is useful to have an appropriate
sized ferrule. However, in the case where the ferrule is undersized then
this shows poor workmanship. The best scenario is to find a ferrule that
fits almost precisely. Please realize that there are tolerances with the
outside diameters of the hosels as they are hand polished during the finishing
process. Therefore the ferrules and hosel will not match outside diameter
for outside diameter each time. This is the reason why turning down the
ferrule is the most acceptable method.

At Hireko, we try to manufacturer all our iron heads with approximately
the same diameter (.540” or 13.7mm) so most of our ferrules we stock
fit very close. Woods on the other hand may not all have the same diameters
because of the different materials the hosels are made from and the dimensions
needed for strength. Many titanium drivers have hosel diameters close
to .500” (12.7mm), while stainless steel fairway woods measure closer
to 0.480” (or 12.2mm). Add in aluminum woods, and you have a third
dimension of @ 0.515” (13mm). Since aluminum woods are not found
often today, most wood ferrules are made closer to the 0.500” outside
diameter for both titanium drivers and stainless fairways alike. The ferrules
on the fairways will need to be sanded to size.

There are other types of ferrules you will see. One of which is called
a “collared” ferrule. These ferrules have a flange below the
ferrule itself that fit into the countersunk portion of the hosel in order
to reduce stress of the shaft. The collared ferrules are precision manufactured
pieces. However, the countersink of a clubhead is done quickly at the
foundry to remove any material from the interior of the hosel. Unfortunately,
it may be required to re-countersink the hosel in order for the collared
ferrule to fit flush. If you don’t use a collared ferrule, epoxy
will fill the gap where the countersink of the hosel is.

Another group of ferrules are referred to as repair ferrules. These are
specialty ferrules for different applications or for specific clubhead
designs (normally large OEM manufacturers). Some ferrules will react as
hosel reducers to allow a smaller diameter shaft to fit inside a slightly
larger hosel diameter. Many OEM manufacturers have .350” hosels,
but there are not as many .350” shafts to choose from. So a special
ferrule can act as the ferrule, plus reduce the hosel opening to .335”
in order to have access to many more models. This is a totally acceptable
practice that will not compromise the shaft if properly installed.

Occasionally, you will run into a clubhead that will require a specific
ferrule all onto itself. A couple of examples would be the Ping ISI and
Wilson Fat Shaft models. In some cases, a special aftermarket replacement
ferrule will be manufactured by an independent ferrule producer if they
feel there will be sufficient request. Tooling for small plastic parts
is very expensive. It should be noted that the manufacturer of the heads
will not usually offer for sale the special ferrule they use in their
own clubheads.

Hopefully, this will help explain the reason for the ferrule and how
to order them in the future. One other word of wisdom, when selecting
the length of the ferrule, it should be proportional to the length of
the hosel.

by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director

“Standard” golf club specs

One word that gets bantered around a lot is standards. Let’s first
take a look at the word “standard” and how it relates to golf
clubs. According to the dictionary, it is described as:“Something considered by an authority or by general consent as a
basis of comparison; an approved model.”The golf industry is not tied to a universal governing body that regulates
all of the specifications that clubs are built to. The closest thing to
that are the United States Golf Association and the Royal & Ancient
Golf Club of St. Andrews, which does list specific rules pertaining to
equipment. Some of what is covered in the “Rules of Golf” (Appendix
II) is a maximum on volume (or size of the head), groove depth and width,
coefficient of restitution and club length. However, many of the specifications
that you may have heard of or familiar with are not regulated and the
manufacturers are free to design as they may (obviously within limits).Some of the specifications such as loft, lie and face angle vary by manufacturer to manufacturer or within the same companies offering of clubs. Loft or lie may vary in the same company’s product line because of who the
model is designed for. The loft may be stronger if the center of gravity
is further back behind the face or the lie may be more upright if it was
design for the mid or higher handicapped golfer. It is not that hard to
see 3 or 4 degrees difference in these two specifications. However, each
and every company measures these specifications nearly identical as there
are heavy duty specification gauges to help register the club by the foundry,
plus the design and QC departments of the golf club company.

Other specifications such as flex, torque and even grip size are more
generic in nature. One company idea of each of these specifications may
be completely different from another

company’s model with a similar nomenclature. The reason behind this
is each company developed their own standard internally to differentiate
certain specifications. One company’s R-flex may quite very well
be stiffer or more flexible than another company’s R-flex. This has
been well documented in the “Modern Guide to Shaft Fitting”

The same could be said of grip size as well, as one company’s mid-size
may be larger or smaller than another company’s mid-size grip. The
terms oversize and jumbo do not provide exact measurements as
does degrees or inches when referring to loft or length.

Length is surely one specification that ought to have a “standard”.
In essence it does in the way that it is measured, but not when it comes
to manufacturing golf clubs. Graphite-shafted clubs are generally longer
than their steel-shafted counterparts for swingweight purposes. With the
addition of hybrid clubs, models with the same number engraved on the
sole can vary quite considerably from one manufacturer to the next as
the head weight dictate the final length.

It is possible to go to several different club fitters and get completely
different results. For example, a certified Ping clubfitter may suggest
that you use a 2° upright iron. Titleist might recommend 3° upright,
while a local independent clubfitter may recommend 1° upright. At
first a consumer may be confused, but they need to know what the so-called
standard lies of each of these models are to begin with. These very well
might end up with the same result (i.e. 64° #6-iron).

While lacking standards among golf clubs, you as a custom clubmaker,
take all of the variables out of a set when you custom fit and assemble
a set. Lengths, lofts and lies can be changed to fit the player. Custom
clubmaking eliminates the concern for standards, creating a best fit club
or clubs to the individual without the huge concern with club standards.

Hopefully you will use the word “standard” as a reference only.
Probably the better terminology ought to be average or benchmark to take
the place of standard. Use it to compare one club with another. But remember, if all clubs (or specifications) were standardized, then there would be no diversity available to golfers of all shapes, sizes, strengths and skill levels. Educate yourself or consult those in the know as to what the actual specifications are and how they relate to your game.

“The only standard there is in the golf industry is there are no standards.” Jeff Summitt

by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director

How to remove the ball bearing in select Ping putters

Are you having difficulty removing a broken shaft from a Ping putter?
Even though you make have heated the hosel cherry red, you still cannot
remove that remaining piece of shaft? What may look like a simple repair
may actually turn into a chore not for the faint of heart. Chance are
there may be a small ball bearing inside the shaft preventing the shaft
from coming out. On certain Ping putters a small ball bearing is cooled to allow it to shrink, then inserted down to the bottom of a tapered shaft so that when it achieves
a normal temperature it expands and forms some sort a mechanical lock
(supposedly to make the putter feel more solid). Here is one way on how
to fix that problem.The first thing to do is ask permission from the customer because some
drilling will be involved. If the customer asks “What is my other
option?” tell the customer they could send it back to Ping to have
them fix it. Once you have the OK, then you want to place the putter in
a padded vise with the hosel pointing down. Some of these putters (like
an Anser 2) have a spur-like hosel and you want to see the bottom of it.Carefully, take a 1/8″ drill bit and go through the spur-like hosel
to penetrate where the center of the hosel (or shaft) is. You want to
save any of the metal shavings as you will need them later. Once you have
drilled though the bottom of the hosel, take a 1/8″ pin punch and
drive the ball bearing up from the tip of the shaft. Now you heat up the
hosel to remove the broken shaft.Next after the putter has cooled, you can epoxy the new shaft (it will
require a .355” taper tip model) and mix the metal shaving in with
some epoxy and fill the hole in the bottom of the head. If you didn’t
save any of the shaving, you could go to a hardware store or some place
that cuts keys. They will be more than happy to give you the metal shavings
left around the key cutter. (Note: it will not be necessary to put the
ball bearing back inside the shaft – save it as a souvenir)by Jeff Summitt
Hireko Technical Director